[MCR] Mt Conrad Group July 20-27th

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just returned from a week at the BMC camp in the Purcells, and 
thought I would send a few pictures and a brief update on the 
conditions in the area, as more folks and guides will be heading this 
way over the next few weeks.

We had an unsettled week with a number of days where we retreated 
close to our summit objectives due to changing weather conditions.
The firn line continues to rise, exposing more rock which may 
lengthen ascent times in some cases.

One party made it close to the summit of Mt McCarthy but turned 
around due to approaching weather. The E ridge of McCarthy has a 
short loose section which needs care to avoid large suspect loose blocks.
No parties climbed Mt Stone, though the picture shows the approximate route.

On Thursday July 24th we had steady rain with 10-40cm of new snow in 
isolated terrain features above 2600m which we observed first hand 
Friday on various less technical objectives.

A few parties climbed Mt Conrad on Saturday the 26th. We started this 
day with clear skies, and below freezing temps on the glaciers. 
Travel was tedious in the new snow with a breakable non supportive 
crust. The old snow beneath remained quite firm through the day which 
made the descents more difficult as the new snow became moist and slippery.
One party continued to climb Mt Malloy after Mt Conrad, which took 
just over 1.5 hours from the Mt Conrad  N ridge bypass. Only minor 
sluffing and snowballing was noted on the 26th.
A few days of this forecasted hot weather should melt the new snow.

The quickest access to Mt Conrad seems to be over the Winnie the Pooh 
col, though another col near Last Chance peak may be quicker if 
returning or going to Mt Malloy as there is less elevation gain.

One size two slab was noted on the CR1 (Climbing Ridge) peak early in 
the week starting beneath a cornice and releasing to glacier ice.

High value scenery with rarely climbed peaks made this camp an excellent venue.

Peter Amann             Mountain Guide
Kirsten Knechtel        Muntain Guide
Todd Anthony Malone     Ski Guide
Hamish Sanderson        Ski Guide



Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann at incentre.net
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