[MCR] Mt Tsar

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Jul 28 13:14:57 EDT 2014


Hello everyone,

  A group of us spent five days in the Tsar area last week. We 
managed to climb Mt Tsar in excellent conditions, one day before the 
snow storm of July 24.

 From a camp near the Tsar-Somervell pass we ascended the normal 
route, going up snow/glacier to join the north ridge, then across the 
upper glacier to the NW ridge. In the morning, travel was fast on a 
thin M-F crust. Once on the north ridge we found mostly dry rock, 
with very few snow patches or wet spots to contend with. We crossed 
on to the upper glacier at 3030m, down climbing about 60m, to get on 
the ice. The upper glacier was well covered which made for easy route 
finding around some obvious crevasses. From there we followed the 
snowy upper ridge to the top.

The storm dumped about  5 cms of wet snow on our camp, but it melted 
rapidly the next day, and by the time we left the area on Fri 
afternoon most of the new snow was gone. The tops of the peaks, above 
2700m, were still plastered in white. It was a very wintery scene on 
the flight out.

Helen Sovdat  MG
Ryan Titchener  ARG, AHG
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