[MCR] Lessons of Oka, Murchison falls area

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided lessons of Oka yesterday (Saturday the 15th)

We spent most of our day under overcast skies and never received any sun.

Despite recording a low of -6C and a high of 2C the constant winds made things feel much cooler. At times, moderate to strong gusts with light snow fall and wind transported made us feel like the storm was starting early. However, despite the threatening skies and a few brief squalls, the wind blew the area clean. The only sign of new snow was snow caught in our up track.  As of 17:00 yesterday there was no sign of the forecasted storm snow.

Most of the snow surfaces in the area of the "base" of the route are either wind affected or sun affected. The point is the snow is either firm or crusty enough that rocks and ice currently run a long distance on the top of the snow pack. Large amounts of new snow with wind could create some touchy storm slab conditions in areas steep enough to produce movement of a slab.

The ice on the route showed little in term of sun affect, the ice is dry and well traveled. Overall the climb is in good shape with a few short delicate sections. In places, the ice is now thin do to sublimation and aerated do to ice axe placements. Rock protection is available in those skinnier sections.

Overhead hazard, there are plenty of big hanging ice features found on the mostly rotten and sun affected Virtual Reality. The overhead hazard looked quite significant and would be of serious concern on a warm sunny day. Parties would be at risk anywhere under fall line to these features, especially on the traverse from Murchison Falls to Lessons of Oka.

We reached the base of Lessons via a new 4 pitch direct variation that avoids the overhead hazard currently generated by Virtual Reality. The route climbs a series of left facing corner systems (short pitches). The route can be described as good rock, thin ice and snow covered traditional mixed climbing of a comparable grade and nature to Lessons of Oka.

We rappelled the recently bolted line of anchors, climbers left of the above mentioned variation down to our packs.

The trail remained cold enough that we kept our crampons on all a the way to the car.

Of note: many large Avalanches were heard yesterday but there was no visual signs other than the Bow Summit area.

Cheers 

Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
patrick.delaney at yamnuska.com