[MCR] Coast - Tantalus Conditions + Serratus west face descent

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Generally speaking the conditions in the Tantalus are getting pretty rough right now.  Conditions are very dry which is making glacier travel challenging, moats massive and lots of newly exposed terrain with loose rock.  Saying that still good climbing and Ill be back a few more time this year!

Tantalus: The moat on to the SE spur is still fine as there is a large boulder bridging the moat!  Another guided group completed the traverse this weekend and had no problem crossing the moat on the east side.

Dione:  The normal approach line on Dione glacier has a couple large holes that are difficult to cross, it seems like the snow bridges should stay for the season.  Otherwise good condition

Serratus N Face:  Tough conditions with difficult crevasse negotiation down low but still very doable.  We climbed the upper face in 4 pitches of 40 -45 degree ice.   

Serratus West Face Descent: I put in 3 additional rappels on the Mount Serratus West face descent, you can now rappel the entire face with out any scrambling.   The last rappel would not be needed during times of normal snow level.

Picture showing the general position of all the anchors,  




Ross Berg
Director & Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG) - Altus Mountain Guides

Cell: 604 966 8543
Email: ross at altusmountainguides.com
Web: www.altusmountainguides.com




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