[MCR] Rockies Ice: Canmore Junkyards

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I ran up to the Canmore Junkyard to check out conditions yesterday afternoon
and was a bit depressed by what I saw. It is definitely in early season
shape right now.

The main flow has only two really climbable lines right now. When I got
there yesterday a party of two had rigged their rope in such a way that both
lines were in use by them leaving only very sub-optimal lines for anyone
else that wandered up. (This was OK at the time as the place was nearly
empty late afternoon on a weekday. Had it been a weekend this would have
been a problem for anyone else showing up.)

The undulating flows on the right side of center were soaking wet and very
thin in many places. This section has not filled in yet and is not very
steep. Anchors on top would be difficult to rig as the ice up above is thin
with running water underneath.

I rambled up twice to check it out and soaked my gloves through in two quick
climbs. In addition, I bent the tips of my picks on rock even though I was
trying to be extremely delicate.

The two gullies on the left side of the main flow were very sketchy and
looked like scrappy and spooky dry tooling. Marginal protection would be all
you could expect. Some of the ice is wet and does not look well attached at
all. I didn¹t bother even trying to head up these lines. My tools were
already banged up enough!

Synopsis: The Junkyard ice is still pretty junky with the exception of the
single section left of center. Needs a couple of weeks of cooler temps to
fatten up before the area will support the normal weekend hoards that show
up here.

Stay Cool

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide
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