[MCR] Ice Conditions-Snivelling Gulley

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Date: December 28th 2015

Location: Weeping Wall Area, Banff National Park

Route: Snivelling Gulley

Gear. Standard Ice Rack 70m rope X 2 


Route Conditions Report:

It was -13 at the base of the route at 10:30am with the sun already high in the sky and warming our backs. The past cold snap has allowed for this route to finally form in good guiding conditions.


Pitch 1 65m: Good ice coverage over this pitch with only a short section of separation and running water between the ice and rock. Good ice on climbers left for a ice screw anchor avoiding the over head hazard of the daggers on the climbers right wall. 


Pitch 2 60m: Running water under sections of snow and ice. Fun scramble with short sections of stemming. Belayed under the roof on the left side with good ice screw anchor. Again avoiding the daggers on climbers right.

NOTE: Snivelling Direct is IN and touching the ground. All bolts are covered. Looking FAT!


Pitch 3 60m: Last pitch is in fine shape with good protection all the way up. Only the last few meters are thin with sections of low angle rock and snow. Belay from tree high climbers left.


Descent: All stations are in good shape but I do recommend a 70m rope X 2 so you can cleanly rappel the last pitch to the ground 65+ Meters.


Snow Conditions Report:

Temp: -13 @ 10:30  Sky: Few  Wind: Light NW

I observed no New naturals over the day, Solar output was strong for this time of year but the snow surface remained cold and dry within my observation area. No structure or significant layers to report within the upper over-head pockets that threaten this climb. Boot penetration was to Ground. (Lot’s of snow for transport) No Surface Crust Observed. 



Safe Travels Yall! o-ya Merry Christmas 😉 


Ryan Titchener

ACMG Apt Alpine Guide

CAA Level 2






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