[MCR] Rockies, Mt Hector

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Wed Sep 23 10:49:23 EDT 2015


I guided and ascent of the North Glacier of Mt Hector on Monday and
Tuesday, Sept 21,22.

Ice on the boulders on the edges of the creek made for a tricky crossing.
Some verglas on the scrambling up climbers left of the waterfalls. Pleasant
hiking in the hanging valley to our campsite.

Tuesday we started in the centre of the N Glacier, but then favoured the
climbers right hand side of it. Many crevasses and it felt safer with 18
meters of rope between us and stopper knots every 2 meters (60 m rope). A
supportive crust carried well until about 10,500 ft. above there foot
penetration varied from crampon deep to boot-top. A hand shear at 10,500 ft
gave a hard planar shear down 15 cm, depth of snow was 30 cm, but varied to
over a 100cm on the upper mountain. We hugged the rock cliffs on climbers
right at the summit block to stay out of the wide open slopes for fear of
avalanche, although I believe that the crust had everything locked-up.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard,
Mountain Guide,
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[image: Inline image 1]
Mt Hector

[image: Inline image 2]
Hector Lake
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