[Woodcarver] Re: painting instructios
Mike Gratton
mike_gratton at yahoo.com
Fri Aug 27 09:07:43 EDT 2004
Bernie,
Thanks from all of us who are trying to get a handle
on painting. I'm definitely going to have to print
those instructions out.
mikeg
--- Woodcarver87 <woodcarver87 at cox.net> wrote:
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> > Hi Charlie,
>
> Thanks for the extra effort and for taking care of
> all the folks that
> requested a copy from me by sending it through the
> List. I also got a great
> memo from Bernie on notes he took at a couple of
> workshops. His notes
> follow. John A
>
> Many carving magazine articles give painting
> instructions and usually
> specify
> a specific brand and color. I found that A.C.Moore
> had a color cross
> reference chart
> posted next to their inventory of craft colors so
> you could perhaps, find a
> matching
> color in a brand that was on sale.
>
> bernie feinerman
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> Notes from a Pete LeClair painting session at the
> Yankee Woodcarvers
> 4/1/2002
>
> Carving should be washed and allowed to dry before
> painting.
> Use a dish detergent and a scrub brush to try to get
> the fuzzies off.
>
> Try out the color you want on a scrap piece of
> similar wood
>
> Anything white should be painted next - eyes, teeth,
> shirt, etc,
> using thinned out acrylic paints. (the kind sold at
> the hobby stores
> for 0.25 to $1.00 for a 2 oz bottle)
> Eyes are usually painted full strength white,
>
> The carving should then be dipped (or brushed on
> heavy) into a solution
> of boiled linseed oil and raw sienna oil paint.
> Starting point for
> setting up the mixture is a quart of boiled linseed
> oil to an 1" of
> pigment extruded from a tube of artists paint. Mix
> it up, try it
> out, and then adjust to suit yourself.
> (I have heard that some people use burnt umber in
> place of raw sienna)
>
> Let the carving soak for a few minutes (20?) and
> then wipe off any
> excess taking care not to leave any pockets of oil
> mixture in any
> crevices. Be careful with the rags used to wipe
> up the solution -
> they are flammable and should be dried out in open
> air outside your
> building before being discarded in the trash.
>
> You can wait 2-4 days maximum between soaking the
> carving in the
> linseed oil solution and the rest of the painting,
> but it is
> better not to wait too long.
>
> Medium flesh = flesh + dab of cadmium red
> Rouge
> Lips = cadmium red + iron oxide
> Darken shadows by brushing a thinned burnt umber
> Hair = black + brown, or a chocolate, or iron oxide
> - take
> care to paint the hair color working away from the
> face.
>
> Let the carving dry for 4 days & then wax it using
> Howards
> Bees wax which comes in a gel form. After the wax
> is on,
> buff it using a buffing wheel.
> (Since the class in 2002, I think Pete has found
> other 'wax's' to use)
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Notes from a Kieth Morrel seminar in April 2004.
>
> Wash the carving and start painting when it is still
> damp but not soaking.
> (what Kieth did was drop the carving into a glass of
> water, pull it out
> and let it sit a bit before starting to paint. I
> think he was trying to fill
> the wood's capillaries with moisture. why I do not
> remember)
>
> As I recall, Kieth had no particular formula for how
> much to dilute the
> carft colors, he put some drops from the bottle into
> a bit of water and
> tried it out.
>
> Paint the flesh colors first
> (He said that putting the flesh color on first
> allowed him to color
> eyebrows, inside of lips, etc. without worrying
> about getting those
> colors onto the whites of the eyes, etc.)
>
> Then paint the white of the eye, the black pupil,
> the main iris color (light X where X = iris color)
> and finally put
> a small ring of a dark Iris color (dark X) around
> the light color.
> Put a tiny dot of white (using a toothpick or a
> hair) on both eyes
> at the same point (i.e. 1 o'clock) to indicate where
> the eyes are pointing.
>
> Kieth suggested using the pens (Micron) that
> Quilters used for getting
> very lines - he used the pens for getting the
> stripes on pants, etc.
> The pen inks are waterproof and available in many
> colors.
>
> Kieth used a different antiquing solution straight
> from a bottle
> instead of the linseed oil/raw sienna solution.
> Kieth said that
> color charts were a bit of a nuisance when there
> were so may colors
> available in the craft stores.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net
> [mailto:woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net]On
> Behalf Of Charlie Briggs
> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 8:04 PM
> To: [Woodcarver]
> Subject: [Woodcarver] Re: painting instructios
>
>
> Hey John,
> I am going to type it in which is what I should
> have done from the
> beginning this way they will go out to the entire
> list.
>
> RHADIGAN PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
>
> 1. AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR PROJECT, USE
> DISH SOAP TO SCRUB CARVING,
> WITH SOAP HOT WATER. USE A DENTURE TOOTH BRUSH OR
> SMALL SCRUB BRUSH. RINSE
> WITH HOT WATER.
>
> 2. AFTER CARVING IS DRY, GIVE IT TWO LITE COATS
> OF KRYLON MATTE FINISH #
> 1311 SPRAY AND LET DRY.
>
> 3. I USE ACRYLIC PAINT, THE CHEAP BRANDS WHATEVER
> IS ON SALE. USE A EYE
> DROPPER, 1 DROP OF PAINT TO ABOUT 15 TO 20 DROPS OF
> WATER, MIX WELL IN
> DIVIDED PLASTIC PALETTE. I TRY TO PAINT WET ON WET,
> YOUR COLORS WILL BLEND
> MUCH BETTER.
> I USE MEDIUM FLESH FOR SKIN TONE, TOMATOESPICE FOR
> THE BLUSH & LIPS. ALL
> BASE COLORS ARE PAINTED THINNED. ANYTHING LIKE EYES
> EYE BROWS BUTTONS
> BUCKLES ARE PAINTED WITH JUST ENOUGH WATER TO MAKE
> THE PAINT FLOW.
>
> 4. AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE PAINTING, LET DRY
> AND GIVE ONE MORE LITE
> COAT OF KRYLON # 1311.
>
> 5. TO ANTIQUE THE CARVING I USE (WATCO FINISHING
> WAX) 70 % NATURAL 305
> DARK. BRUSH ON, LET STAND FOR A FEW MINUTES, WIPE
> OFF WITH A RAG OR PAPER
> TOWEL.
>
> ENJOY YOUR WORK OF ART ------------ FLOYD
>
> THERE YOU GO GANG OF HOPE IT WORKS FOR YOU AS WELL
> AS IT HAS WORKED FOR
> ME.
> CHARLIEB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Woodcarver87
> To: Charlie Briggs
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 10:20 PM
> Subject: RE: painting instructios
>
>
> Hi Charlie: Nothing came through on the
> attachment. Can you tell me if
> Floyd's handout was a written set of descriptions or
> did you try to send me
> a photograph? Please give it another try. I have
> about a dozen or so people
> interested in me sending along a copy of what you
> send me. Thanks, John A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charlie Briggs
> [mailto:cbcarver12 at optonline.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 9:06 PM
> To: Woodcarver87
> Subject: painting instructios
>
>
> Hey John,
> I hope this comes out alright, I am not the
> best when it comes to
> computers.
> I tied to follow Floyds instructions as close
> as possible.
> I really liked the finish he was able to
> create in all his carvings.
> If you remember he had a light wash finish that
> aloud you to see the wood
> grain thru the paint.
> The red he used on his Santa's was called
> 'tomatoes and spice' I found
> it at Michaels craft supplies. The brand was Delta
> Ceramcoat Acrylic Paint,
> it is not in a tube it is in a plastic jar.
> I have not decided to antique the carving or
> to put a wax finish on it
> or not, Right now I am leaning to doing nothing
> else.
> I hope this has helped you out. If you have
> any other questions feel
> free to ask.
> I hope Floyd comes back next year I really
> enjoyed his class.
> CharlieB
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