[MCR] Replicant, Banff, AB

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Today, myself and Paul Masiar climbed the Replicant. We apologize for  
not leaving a note on our car saying which route we were climbing... a  
very good idea to do : )

We enjoyed the warm temperatures, but the winds steadily increased  
today. By the time we were rappelling our ropes and jackets were  
caught in some serious updrafts. The wind picked up to very strong  
gusts taking our ropes and throwing them up the route. We had fairly  
consistent spindrift on the last pitch. On the descent we observed a  
sz 1.5 avalanche: 5-10cm deep, 50m wide by 150m long on 45+º terrain  
on a planar rocky bed surface, just from wind loading taking lots of  
rocks down with it. Even though it hasn't snowed for awhile, and there  
isn't much snow underfoot, there is still snow available for transport  
in these windy conditions.

We found the route to be very dry (perhaps the inversions of the past  
week have been sublimating the ice). On the first pitch there are many  
hooks, the ice has lots of air in it and seems to be delaminating from  
the rock in places. I didn't take comfort in many of my screw  
placements.
On the second pitch we found dry and brittle conditions. Better screw  
placements with a few hooks. The route is outfitted with abolocovs and  
the approach trail is in great condition for a steep approach trail. : )

Thanks to Paul, Eric and the International Guides Bureau for a great  
day out.

  jen olson

acmg/ifmga mountain guide

www.jenolson.ca
www.climberpassionate.com









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