[MCR] Rockies, Glenmorangie

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

We climbed Glenmorangie today, March 7th. It's a great route and in  
good shape right now. A good trail leads to the climb from the Yoho  
Vally parking lot.

Like other parties we traversed right about 10 meters from the top of  
the right hand, grade 3, approach to Twisted. A prominent dihedral  
there leads via some mixed and thin ice to the continuous ice  
systems. This first pitch (65 meters) protected well with a set of  
Black Diamond Camalots .4 - 4 and ice screws (13 cm and 16 cm).

The second pitch was started from and ice balcony at the bottom right  
side of the steep upper ice. We took the steepest, crux, section on  
the far left against the rock. A gear search granted 3 nuts, 1  
knifeblade piton, and a 10 cm screw (It may be more straight forward  
to climb this pitch via the pillar on the right side).

We descended the route in two rappels from abalakovs.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

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Twisted (left) and Glenmorangie (right), March 7/11