[MCR] ACMG Alpine Exam - Aug 27 to Sept 5

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just finished 10 days on the ACMG Alpine Exam between August 27 and Sept 5.

Yesterday the group I was in climbed Mt Louis via the Gmoser route while a
2nd was on the Kain. On both routes we enjoyed great climbing and utilized
well placed bolt stations at most belays. Routes were dry. Autumn like
weather, cool hiking temps and warm sunny climbing, made for a memorable day
out. Great to see dozens of hikers out enjoying the area as well.

The exam climbed in:
Bugaboos
Rogers Pass
Lake Louise Group
Athabasca and Andromeda
Bow Valley alpine rock routes

Weather ranged from sunny and warm to complete whiteout and up 25cm of new
snow during the week.
We had generally easy travel on glaciers with good coverage and strong
bridging over crevasses and bergshrund. New snow cover made crevasse
detection more challenging at the start of the month.
Mt Fay Sept 1, we observed avalanche crowns in the Roth/Kallen. Other groups
observed slides from Lefroy on the same day from the previous days storm
snow. Verglass made for some engaging climbing on alpine rock Aug 31 and
Sept 1

Rock routes were dry. An effort was made to remove old weathered slings and
cord from climbs. 

Happy climbing.

John Freeman
ACMG ­ Assistant Alpine Guide
offroute1 at gmail.com
http://offroute-again.blogspot.com/


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