[MCR] Rockies, Johnston Canyon, Moonlight Falls

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

March 4th I guided in Johnston Canyon. Two pillars, left and right, have formed in the centre area. We climbed the left hand one and it has decent protection and lots to stand on and chimney in, a good route. Another party climbed the right hand pillar, which is smaller and fresher, and reported no "gonging" -something I had been concerned about looking at it. The right hand pillar was then top roped by a second team.

March 5th we plowed a track into Moonlight Falls. 25 cms of snow in the parking lot in the morning. The climb was challenging with brittle ice camouflaged by snow. Hard to keep your hands warm, both of my guests suffered the screaming barfies. Four additional parties showed up below us and when we came down parties were on both Cah Cah (Caw Caw?) -the freshly bolted line on the left side of Moonlight, and on Too Low for Zero (also newly bolted). Both these lines are now alternatives to the classic ice lines.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com