[MCR] Wapta, Peyto Glacier

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I was just guiding on the Wapta for a few days, climbing Thompson,
Habel and the Baker-Barrel-Trapper traverse which are all in great
shape with good travel on the snow.

The Wapta's glaciers are taking a beating with high firn lines and
lots of flowing water. Crampons were essential especially in the
morning with so much bare ice and hard overnight freezes. Travel was
good late into the day. There are many thinly bridged (albeit mostly
small) crevasses to watch for.

It's been many years since I looked at the Peyto Glacier in the summer
and it's pretty shocking. The glacier ends shortly after it hits the
flats (2350 m?), after which there is a lake and numerous braided
channels that appear to effectively block access to/from the moraines
on the northwest side of the glacier (past the glacier research
cabins). Getting from the moraines to the ice means either crossing
fast-moving water channels or walking across a sketchy looking rock
glacier below Peyto Pk. Another option for accessing Peyto Glacier is
the lesser used canyon route but I haven't been that way for a long
time and don't know much about its condition in the summer -- it might
be worth checking out though if you're determined to get through that
way. The most straightforward bet is via Bow Hut which was what we
did.

I was once again impressed with the number of large gaping crevasses
on the glacier just above Bow Hut -- something to keep in mind while
ski touring there in the winter, some of them are more than 2 metres
wide, and they are in a few places you might not expect them to be.

Baker-Barrel-Trapper traverse -- this is a Wapta gem, well worth
doing. The descent from "Barrel Peak" (aka South Trapper Pk) towards
Barrel/Trapper col requires some careful routefinding (ledge accessed
from far left) but is easy down climbing on rock. The SE ridge of
Trapper Peak is great fun -- some nice scrambling and exposed ridge on
good rock. We did a Kain-style glissade down the NE face that required
a bit of Swiss fall line to avoid the bergschrund.

-- 
Regards,

Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta