[MCR] Evan Thomas & KHC ice climbs

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Yesterday 140219
Climbed: 2 low for Zero, Snow line an moonlight.
The approach was fine, no open creek yet. But that could change quick with warm temps. 
Fresh Cougar tracks the road section.

Climbs: 2 low and snow line are drying up. There are two sections on 2 low with many screw holes in small pilar features. I used a threaded sling to avoid adding more holes.
Snow line is well pocketed (shallow) bad bolts exposed down low and there was no "V" thread at top of lower section.

Moonlight is fat.

Today 140220:
climbed Asylum near Golden (except last ice pitch too wet).

The approach: We traversed over from the Riverdale approach, much more sheltered options than straight up the gully. 

We climbed the route via the following variation approach pitches:
http://gripped.com/routes/asylum-kicking-horse-canyon/

There is a large buried winds slab, down 20 to 40cm. It covers the base of the start described above. It's possible to avoid the slab on the far right.
We however chose to climb an appealing pitch a bit out of the way down and left.
It climbed a yellow ice mixed corner but lowered awkwardly with a short travers to the single bolt described in the article. 

We climbed pitch 1 as described and combined pitch 2 and 3.
Bring old blades cause you have to swing into turf and mud. 

Our climb was completely snow covered and it requires focus. The bolts were hard to find and the climbing is on hard near quartzite rock. It protects well and likely easier if free I snow. But should be avoided if warm the mud and turf won't take the tools and will vanish otherwise.

The first ascent line looks doable but would be really snowy after the first 50m

The first upper ice pitch was lens covered in slightly overhanging mushrooms. The gear was reasonable but is was still reasonably cold. It was harder than it looked.

The upper crux is typical of the period, sport bolted with many close bolts.
Of note: the start is scruffy and muddy and not very appealing. The anchor could be hidden soon, it's currently at your feet.
The last bolt, the one at the end of the roof is really loose. 
When the feet get thin near the lip stay low find the "creative" foot hold down and left.

Once on the ice pull a small ice roof and down climb a body length into a cave with a bolted belay, cool place.
Two rap options exist. One goes through a worm hole.

Lots of snow overall. Not much sun affect on any of the ice routes a far as I could see.
Would not want to be approaching any of the lines in warmer temps than today. There was no snow balling or clumping but it has a bit cloudy at times and remained reasonably cold.

However, on the steep rock, by the end of the day, the approach pitches were wet and did not look frozen at all.

Cheers
Patrick Delaney
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures




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